New Cat Checklist: Everything to Set Up Before the Big Day

You found the cat. The carrier is borrowed, the excitement is real, and the first vet appointment is already making you nervous. Before that little fuzzy stranger walks through your door, there’s a list — and some of it is stuff you’d never think of until you’re holding a terrified kitten at midnight with no litter box.

This checklist is the one I wish I’d had. It covers what to buy, what to do to your apartment, and what not to do on day one (seriously, don’t skip that last part). Once the big day is over, read our first month with a new cat guide to survive the first 30 days.

Before the Cat Arrives: The Setup

The safe room

Pick one small room — a spare bedroom, a bathroom, even a walk-in closet — and set it up as the landing zone. Your new cat should start here, not in the whole apartment. A smaller space feels safer, and it keeps them from sprinting under the couch and refusing to come out.

In the safe room you need:

• **Litter box in one corner** — open, roomy, and away from food
• **Food bowl and water bowl in the opposite corner** — cats don’t love eating next to their bathroom
• **A hidey spot** — a cardboard box with a towel, a covered bed, anything they can duck into
• **A soft blanket or towel with the old owner’s scent**, if you can get one. It genuinely helps.

The shopping list

Don’t go overboard. These are the essentials:

• Open litter box + litter (same brand they’re used to, if you can find out)
• Two shallow bowls (food and water)
• A carrier
• At least one scratching post
• A wand toy
• A couple of small toys (balls, crinkle toys — nothing fancy)
• Nail clippers
• A basic brush
• High-quality kitten or adult food, matching their age

That’s it. You can add the extras later once you know what this particular cat actually likes.

Cat-Proof the Apartment

This is the part most first-timers skip and regret. Get on your hands and knees and look at the place from cat level. What do you see?

Windows and balconies

This one is non-negotiable: **secure your windows and balcony before the cat arrives.** Cats fall out of windows every single day — screens are not enough. Mesh netting or a proper window guard costs a little but saves a life. My full walkthrough on [how to cat-proof your apartment](https://pawsavvyguide.com/how-to-cat-proof-your-apartment/) has the cheap DIY version.

Hazards to remove

• Exposed electrical cords — tuck them away or wrap them
• Toxic plants: lilies are a hard no, plus several others (check a list before buying any greenery)
• Loose strings, rubber bands, hair ties — cats eat these and end up at the emergency vet
• Small objects they can swallow
• Medications and cleaning supplies — behind closed doors
• Open toilet lids (kittens fall in; it’s not a myth)

Day One: Do These Five Things

1. Put them straight in the safe room

Carrier goes in the room, door opens, and you step back. Let the cat decide when to come out. For the first few hours, just let them decompress.

2. Let them come to you

Don’t scoop them up, don’t chase them under the bed, don’t force cuddles. Sit on the floor, talk softly, maybe dangle a toy. A cat that hides is not a cat that hates you — it’s a cat that’s scared. Building trust takes days, sometimes weeks.

3. Do NOT do these things

• **Don’t bathe them.** They clean themselves, and a bath on day one is pure trauma.
• **Don’t grab them from hiding spots.**
• **Don’t switch food immediately.** Keep the old food, then transition over 7 days.
• **Don’t introduce them to the whole house, the kids, or the dog yet.** Slow and steady.

4. Show them the litter box

Place them in the box once so they know where it is. Most kittens get it quickly. If they have an accident, don’t scold — just clean it and keep them in the safe room a little longer.

5. Watch, don’t hover

For the first 24 hours, you’re basically a quiet observer. Watch for eating, drinking, litter use, and general alertness. A little hiding and not-eating on day one is common. What’s not okay is a cat that refuses food or water for over 24 hours — that’s a vet call.

The First Week

Let the room expand gradually

After 3-5 days, if they’re eating and using the box normally, open the door and let them explore at their own pace. Some cats take over the house by day two. Others live in one room for a month. Both are fine.

Keep the routine

Feed at the same times. Scoop daily — cats are picky about clean boxes, and a dirty box is the #1 cause of “why is my cat peeing on my rug.” I keep a scoop-and-swipe schedule, and it’s the best habit I’ve built.

Book the vet visit

Within the first week, get them in for a checkup. It covers weight, eyes, ears, and a stool check for parasites. Tell the vet what food they’re eating and ask about the vaccine schedule.

Know the red flags

Go to the vet if you see any of these:

• Not eating or drinking for over 24 hours
• Repeatedly squatting in the box without producing anything
• Vomiting or diarrhea that doesn’t stop
• Open-mouth breathing or extreme lethargy

Trust your gut. If you’re worried, the vet would rather see you.

What You Don’t Need to Buy (Yet)

Here’s where you save money:

• Fancy automatic feeders — nice later, not needed now
• A wardrobe of beds — your cat will pick the box over the bed anyway
• A GPS tracker — maybe someday
• Expensive grooming kits — a brush and clippers cover 90% of it

FAQ

**How long does it take a new cat to feel at home?**

Usually a few days to a couple of weeks. Rescue cats or shy cats can take a month or more. The routine and a quiet safe room speed things up.

**Should I adopt two kittens instead of one?**

Two kittens are easier in some ways — they entertain each other and learn bite inhibition from each other. But two also means double the cost, double the litter, and double the chaos. Either works; just be honest about your budget.

**What if my new cat won’t come out from under the bed?**

Leave food, water, and litter near them, and give it time. Spend time in the room doing quiet things, like reading. Let them get used to your presence without pressure. If they’re still hiding after a week with no progress, talk to a vet or a cat behaviorist.

**Can I let my cat sleep in my bed from day one?**

You can, but most experts recommend letting them settle in their safe room first, then letting them decide. If you close the bedroom door, be ready for some serious midnight complaints.

**When should I switch them to a new food?**

Wait until they’re settled — at least a week, ideally two. Then mix new food into old gradually over 7 days. Abrupt switches are how you get a cat who refuses dinner and then eats your houseplant.

Final Word

Getting a cat is exciting, but the prep is what separates a smooth transition from a stressful one. Set up the safe room, cat-proof the windows, keep the first day calm, and resist the urge to smother your new roommate with affection immediately.

If you’re just past this stage, my post on the [first month with a new cat](https://pawsavvyguide.com/first-month-with-a-new-cat/) covers what happens after the checklist — the real-life chaos, the surprise expenses, and the moment they finally decide you’re family.

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